
Issue 07 · 2024
On my way into the Bosnian mountains I passed Sarajevo and took a look at the city. As a child I often heard its name on the news ... with images of war. The war is still visible everywhere in and around Sarajevo: burnt-out ruins, bullet holes in houses and shrapnel marks on the ground make its consequences impossible to overlook even today.
The old town is quite pretty but very small ... I’d say if you’re nearby you should see Sarajevo, but flying there doesn’t make sense to me.
The trip in numbers
Year — 2024
Countries — Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Distance — approx. 500 km
Diesel — approx. 100 l · €140





Maybe I’m reading too much into it, but the holes in this modern architecture mirror the look of many of Sarajevo’s houses after the war.




Then I headed into the mountains behind Sarajevo – where Yugoslavia hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics. Six years later the Bosnian War began, and the venues were destroyed in the fighting.









Further up into the mountains
01




Lukomir is the highest village in Bosnia and is only inhabited in summer. In winter the roads are snowed in and not cleared, so it’s impossible to reach the village.
Tourism has arrived in the village by now, but there’s still a lot of traditional life. Old grandmas and grandpas with weathered faces make handicrafts that are sold to tourists ... wooden cooking spoons, for example. Chickens run around everywhere, and old blue Mercedes “Düsseldorfer” vans are still doing their job today.





























02
Good to know
The Old Bridge dates from 1566, was shot to pieces during the war in 1993 and rebuilt in 2004 – partly with stones recovered from the Neretva. The bridge divers jump a good 20 m into the ice-cold river. But only once there’s enough money in the hat.






03
Good to know
At just over 2,380 m, Maglić is the highest mountain in Bosnia and sits right on the border with Montenegro. It is surrounded by Sutjeska National Park and the Perućica forest, one of the last true primeval forests in Europe.






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